I am working on some plates where the customer wants a different foot than what I usually do so she can hang it on the wall if she decides. I experimented last week and wound up messing them all up . . . I either tried to do the foot too soon and could not keep the plate flat . . . or waited too long and then could not make a good attachment.
We have decided to go with a small flattened ball on the bottom with holes in each so that it could be strung with a wire at some point.
I make my plates from a bisque mold that I threw on the wheel. The mold is the shape of the negative space that exists under the rim. I like this method because it allows me to repeat the same size plate with the exact same rim rise . . . and I like the variance I get with a hand cut rim. I learned this method from Kari Radasch . . . really cool potter.
So I roll out a slab and lay it over top of this mold (which is sitting on a banding wheel). Last week I was rolling the slabs 1/4 inch thick but had trouble keeping the plate flat after I put the foot on . . . even after they had set up. This week I increased the thickness to 3/8″ inch and it seems to have made the world of difference. So then I use a square of felt (filled with rice and tied off) . . . to gently impress the clay down into the mold. I really like the texture left on the clay by the felt fabric. . . .it is very subtle. 
Then I cut the outside rim with an exacto knife, imprint the edge with one of my stamps . . . and let it set up, loosely covered, on a piece of sheetrock. But HOW LONG???? That is the question that has been making me crazy . . . last week it was either not long enough or my plates were too thin for this type of foot because when I tried to apply a soft ball of clay, I ruined them.
Today, I had more success. The plate seemed a true leather hard. . .. but the clay used for the feet was very soft. I was able to level the plate and it seemed to hold. We shall see now, as it dries. I feel like that is when my mistakes come back to haunt me . . . .
So what do your feet look like? Do you have any tips for this? What about wheel thrown plates . . . how do you keep the rim rise consistent . . . or do you not care about that?
Why don’t you throw a ring/foot on the plate. You can then cut a groove that a wire would fit in.
Just center the leather hard plate on your wheel (upside down) & place a thin ring of clay on/about where you want it & with moist fingers attach to plate – with the wheel turning. Then take a needle tool & cut your groove for the wire – with the wheel turning. Voila. (This would be much easier to show you . .)
I’m really not a fan of making plates. They are so much work getting any kind of consistency. I’ve tried Judy’s method of adding a thrown foot, but I had a similar problem as you with getting the pot to the right hardness. It worked really well when I did, though! I think Ron does that a lot on his plates and platters. He had a video one time on his blog. I’ll go search for it later today.
Thanks for your ideas Judy . .. I could try a thrown foot. I had been putting a coil foot on them for a time but was having trouble with structural cracks appearing in the foot as it dried . . . maybe not enough compression? The wheel thrown foot would have more of that but then more moisture . . maybe that is not a problem?
Ben, I have to say I am with you on making plates . . . their form implies simplicity but for me it is everything BUT that! Ron is an incredible plate maker . . . he has the magic down. I will be interested in his video if we can find it.
Thanks you for your great feedback!
I get away with using my wifes corell as a drape mold.(or you can buy plain white corell at wallmart for $2.50 a plate but most potters are cheap like me) You have to oil it and dust it with corn starch so that clay doesnt stick to the plate and the corn starch burns out in the kiln. Place slab in plate, trim with knife(learned from Yoko Sekino Bove workshop)when leather hard,flip from mold and work edges with Elephant Ear sponge till smooth. Flip the corell and center on wheelhead so its convex, then place youre leather hard plate over it, secure with 3 lugs of clay and carefully tool it or add foot ect… Note: It only works with earthenware, Stoneware temp. causes the edges to slump. (this is how I do my tulipware and slip trailed plates)
thank you mike . . I like the idea of using the mold (in this case correll) as the supporting form for adding a foot. I had never thought to try that . . . and you make beautiful plates! I will try this.